Transducer buying guide
Four questions decide which transducer you need. Here's how to answer them.
Question 1
How will it mount?
Transom
Bolts to the back of the boat below the waterline. The easiest install and the go-to for most outboard and trailer boats. Can lose signal at high speed in turbulent water.
Shop transomThru-hull
Fitted through a hole in the hull, usually with a fairing block to sit level. The cleanest signal at speed and in deep water — the choice for offshore and larger boats.
Shop thru-hullIn-hull
Bonded inside a solid fiberglass hull and fires through it. No hole, no drag, slightly weaker signal. Not for cored or aluminum hulls.
Shop in-hullTrolling motor
Clamps to the trolling motor so the beam goes wherever the motor points. Ideal for forward-facing and live sonar while you fish.
Shop trolling motorQuestion 2
Which frequencies?
Lower frequencies go deeper; higher frequencies show more detail. Ranges vary by manufacturer — these are typical.
50 / 200 kHz
Traditional dual-frequency. 50 kHz reaches deep with a wide cone; 200 kHz shows detail in shallower water.
Low CHIRP
Roughly 25–80 kHz. Deep water and big targets offshore.
Medium CHIRP
Roughly 80–160 kHz. A versatile middle ground for mid-depths and bait.
High CHIRP
Roughly 130–250 kHz. Sharp separation in shallower water — inshore and freshwater favourite.
Imaging
Typically 455 kHz to 1.2 MHz. Photo-like down and side views of structure, at shorter range.
Question 3
How much power?
Power is rated in watts. Around 600 W suits most inshore and lake fishing; 1 kW and up is for deep water, offshore and seeing bottom at speed. Your display or sonar module must be able to drive the transducer's power — another thing we check for you.
Question 4
Will it plug in?
Each display brand uses its own connectors, and pin counts differ between models. Some transducers ship with a fixed connector; others use a "mix & match" cable you choose separately for your display. Check the listing's connector — or send us your display model and we'll match the cable.